September 10
Map & Schedule: Courtesy of Ed’s B&B
Stornoway, from the ferry, just before departure
September 10: Mountains, Lighthouses and a Little French Competition
As has been the case every day with Ed, the whole day was really about me and my photo opportunities. This morning we had to catch the ferry fairly early, which gave me some great chances to take photos around the harbour on Harris, the Outer Isles and Ullapool on the mainland.
Once we arrived in Ullapool, Ed left me in town while he went grocery shopping. I think he presented it as another photography opportunity, but really he was buying some special treats that I would discover later at the lighthouse. What a guy!
Climbing a Mountain Face
We made several stops on the way to our lighthouse accommodation. The first was at the ruins of a castle beside a loch. The castle itself looked lovely, but the car park was packed, which meant lots of people were taking the same photos of the same stone walls.
Just before the castle, though, there were the remains of a cleared building, and I found that much more interesting. I don’t want to take exactly the same picture as everyone else. I’m looking for something a bit different.
Then came the mountain.
I’m not great with heights. In fact, I’ve told Ed that I’m more comfortable in a hot-air balloon basket than walking up the side of a mountain with a steep drop beside me. Steep stairs are also not my favourite thing.
The hike was beautiful, and the views were unbelievable, but I have always tried to be sensible about my limits. I went as high as I felt comfortable going, then decided that pushing any further would mean ignoring my own safety alarm bells. Ed carried on and completed the full walk, while I headed back to the car park. I was perfectly happy with that decision, especially since the views were still spectacular from where I stopped.
AI generated by Ed.
The Lighthouse
Our accommodation was definitely the highlight of the trip so far. We were staying in a lighthouse, with an entire apartment to ourselves.
Getting there involved driving along a fairly rough single-track road, but the scenery was incredible. Eventually, we reached the lighthouse at the very end of the road. It felt quite special to drive past the sign saying only authorized vehicles could go beyond that point, open the gate, and realize that we were the authorized vehicles.
The apartment itself was magnificent. It passed my usual accommodation test with flying colours: did it have everything we needed, including cooking oil, tea and coffee? Yes, yes and yes.
I was especially pleased that there were two bedrooms. That meant we didn’t have to disturb each other’s sleep. We’ve been pretty lucky that way so far.
The only problem was that neither of us seemed to have a reliable internal compass. We kept walking out of the kitchen, turning the wrong way and ending up heading down the bedroom hallway. It was mostly me, if I’m being honest.
We also had a little confusion getting into the apartment. Our booking was for the first floor, and we had forgotten that in Scotland the first floor is above the ground floor. We were looking for the wrong entrance, which was made even more confusing because a French film crew was staying on the ground floor.
Our contact initially thought we were part of the French group and gave us directions to their apartment. Then she realized we were not the French film crew, called us back and tried to redirect us. So there we were: the Canadian photographer and her sidekick, who is actually the main character, trying not to break the key in the lock.
Stoer, lighthouse, our home for three nights.
The French
It turned out that we were sharing the building with three French television crew members.
Now, I know I’m generalizing, and whenever you put an entire population under one label, you’re bound to be wrong about plenty of people. But there can be a certain professional arrogance when experienced people see an amateur getting in the way of their work.
While I was outside photographing the sunset, one of the crew told me to move because I was in the way of their drone. The drone operator wanted me to stand close to him and behind him, which would have completely ruined my angle.
I did move, but only after I got my photograph. There may also have been a few silent expletives directed his way. After all, I thought, he was working trying to earn a living. I would never get in the way of that.
Later, we heard a knock at the door. It was the nicest of the three Frenchmen, asking if we had any salt. We did, so I went to get it from the kitchen.
While I was gone, things apparently turned into a small battle of national pride. The Frenchmen explained that, naturally, the three of them were excellent cooks because they were French. They were preparing lobster and courgettes, which sounded very impressive.
Ed, not wanting Canadian cooking to be outdone, announced that we were also having lobster—and that ours was an excellent lobster.
Then he realized that, in defending our culinary honour, he had completely ruined the surprise dinner he had secretly bought in Ullapool earlier that day.
So much for the big reveal. At least our national cooking reputation was safe.
I got my revenge the next morning. Just after sunrise, a flock of sheep wandered up toward the lighthouse, creating a perfect pastoral scene in the soft morning light.
Normally, I would have woken everyone up to tell them about the photo opportunity.
This time, I didn’t
Ed’s Itinerary
Day 6 — Sept 10, Thursday
My Mom would have been 100 today.
Breakfast at Lathamor Cottage. Check-out is 5:30 am – 10 am
Return to Mainland
Ferry: Stornoway Ferry Terminal (very near Lathamor Cottage) to Ullapool
Calmac.co.uk
7:00 am or 2 pm Ferry sails from Stornoway to Ullapool.
I am thinking that because Lathamor is so close to the Stornoway Ferry… and has 5:30am checkout… maybe a very early breakfast? Solves Day 5 breakfast too! TBC…
I will book the 7 am ferry from Stornoway to Ullapool.
9:40 am arrive Ullapool Ferry Terminal
Disembark Ferry, parking close by.
You can shoot Ullapool Harbour and views up the Loch Broom
I know Ullapool well; I will do grocery shopping (for our kitchen in Stoer Lighthouse). We may have to buy all the food for 3 days, as we are far from everything… and I know of an excellent wine shop…Ullapool Smokehouse has amazing smoked meats, pate, and specialty bread for Naguib... the smokehouse has famous cinnamon rolls for Naguib... they make them...
Great outdoor seating on the harbour wall with a pub behind us…
Outdoor shop in town in case you need any gear for the northern mainland part of your trip.
Dear Mr Farquharson, I am very happy to confirm that we have received full payment for your stay, and the first-floor apartment is booked for you at our lovely Stoer Lighthouse on the following dates:
ARRIVAL: 10th of September 2026
Departure: 13th of September 2026
Access to the Stoer Lighthouse on the day of your arrival is from 4:00 p.m., andcheck-out strictly before 10:00 O’clock on your day of departure. You will be sent one code to this e-mail address 10 to 5 days before your arrival
12 noon, leave Ullapool. Stop at Knockan Crag National Nature Reserve 20 minutes north of Ullapool
One Caves option!!?
12:30pm to 3:00 pm: explore Knockan Crag, walking trails through a dramatic, craggy landscape of mountains & lakes, plus indoor geology exhibits.
3:00 pm leave for Stoer Lighthouse car park, Lairg, 1h 30min drive
4:30 pm arrive at Stoer Lighthouse car park, short trail walks to Lighthouse Accommodations.
I will have the lock box code by then and can get our key to the ENTIRE FIRST FLOOR!!!
We check in. Relax, and Naguib now has first-class photography at his doorstep!
We eat premade food at Lighthouse; I want a good wine, and everything is at least 1h 30min away.