September 9 “Edhenge”
Map & Schedule: Courtesy of Ed’s B&B
The newly named “Edhenge”, previously known as the Standing Stones of Calanais”. Courtesy Dan Bodanis
Today’s goal was the same as all the other days: Ed tries to outdo yesterday’s Ed. Mission successful.
We had a bit of a constraint on us right out of the gate with breakfast starting at 7:00, no earlier option was made available. We rushed through it because we needed to get over to the standing stones of Calanais. These ancient beauties are older than Stonehenge and, as Ed is fond of telling anyone who will listen, they are Scottish and older than both Stonehenge any my beloved Pyramids. Courtesy of our dear friend Dan Bodanis, they now go by an official new name: "Edhenge."
As usual, the Scotland weather was a huge factor, and it turned out, Ed arranged it to be an absolutely perfect day. Pure sunshine, all day long. Ed even managed to arrange just enough wind to keep the midges away.
We arrived at the stones at the perfect moment. Ed ensured the sun was at just the right angle for us, and the crowd was light and respectful of the place and each other’s need to take their pictures. Ed decided to test his luck and went right through one of the standing stones. Fortunately, he came back to our century, mainly to make sure I still had a chauffeur for the rest of the trip. We were definitely destined to face a whole lot more single-track roads.
After an hour and a half wandering the site, we shifted to a different set of stones about fifteen minutes away. That was followed by a visit to an eighteenth-century village where we met some fans of a tiny, obscure little show—I’m not sure if any of our readers might have heard of it—called Outlander. In fact, like pretty much every other day on this trip, we’ve started collecting people. A few travellers have begun following our adventures across Scotland, so a big welcome aboard to our new Spanish, English, and American followers!
After a small picnic lunch, we headed into town and split up. Ed went one way, heading straight for a local pub we had found the day before in Stornoway. I had to suffer through doing some street and harbour photography, meeting more of the locals, and doing my part to stimulate the island economy by picking up a much-needed Harris Tweed hoodie.
That evening, after a bit of a rest, we went out to dinner and then headed back for an early night at the Airbnb.
I’m noticing a bit of a pattern developing with our schedules. As an insomniac who regularly needs an early bedtime, it is really hard for me to stay awake into the double digits, on this trip, nine PM is tough. But then I’m wide awake anywhere from two to three hours in the middle of the night, which gives me time to write in peace. Ed, on the other hand, can sleep like a log through the night, but he’s a total night owl. It’s a very good thing he’s the one doing the driving; I repay some of my insomnia debt during the day by dozing off while the car is moving—which, to be fair, is a distinct advantage of riding shotgun.
It was definitely an early night for me. The morning ferry leaves at 7:00, which means we have to be sitting in the queue by 6:00 sharp.
Day 5 — Sept 9 Wednesday
Breakfast at Lathamor; Lathamor only goes through booking.com, so breakfast is included, but I don’t know sitting times. Let’s assume 7 am earliest.
Sunrise on Sept 9 at the Calanais Standing Stones is at 6:42 am; the drive to the stones takes 30 minutes.
We should be on the road by 6 am, so for one morning we'll miss breakfast. Most places you can ask for sandwiches made the night before…but I would not bother.
On the road at 6 am heading to Calanais Standing Stones.
Please note: Callanish Stone Circle 3 is very nearby, and we can go there too (in fact, I think there are 8 stone circles nearby, but not as big) … but Callanish Standing Stones is the main attraction for the shoot.
Older than Stonehenge and the Pyramids.
Optional stops
• Gearrannan Blackhouse Village, 9 miles, 16min from stones, Seaside village built in the 1800s offering simple accommodation in restored cottages, plus a cafe. Cafe! Ed is driving there!!!!
Opens 9:30 am.
• Butt of Lewis Lighthouse: Brick lighthouse built in 1862, 30 miles, 46 minutes from Blackhouse. Set on a windy clifftop with views of the rugged coast. We are now at the furthest northern tip of Lewis.
Might be around 2 pm now.
Head on back to Stornoway, 30 miles, 50 min.
Please note all drive times can be altered by stops for great shots “discovered” and pee stops.
We could rest at Lathamor or hang out in town.
Within Stornoway, there is Lews Castle to walk to.
There is also Stornoway Sunken Garden near Lews.
5:30 pm Dinner at Eleven Restaurant and Bar.
Looks like a Roast Beef Carvery and buffet with lots of choices. Well rated.
Back to Lathamor for our second night.